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Tag Archives: RHODO

FROM EASTERN PLANT

21 Monday Feb 2022

Posted by easternplant in AVAILABLE LARGE RHODOS, Camp, Camping, RHODODENDRON, TRILLIUM, Uncategorized, VIBURNUM, WILDFLOWER AND FERN AVAILABILITY, WILDFLOWER AVAILABILITY

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Camp, Camping, RHODO, RHODODENDRON, Vacation

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Giant Rhodos you say! Yes, we can successfully dig them!

05 Thursday Jul 2018

Posted by easternplant in AVAILABLE LARGE RHODOS, MOVING LARGE PLANTS, RHODO, RHODODENDRON, Uncategorized

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LANDSCAPE, MOVING LARGE PLANTS, RHODO, RHODODENDRON

The huge rhodo you see in this truck, was picked out by a customer in Bar Harbor, Maine from our vast selection. It is eight by thirteen feet in size!  It took two days of manual digging, a mini tractor to extract it from the hole, then carefully getting it strapped on plywood. After that was a meticulous dragging it thru our forest (by five men!) to get it to a loading point. Finally, a delicate move onto the truck liftgate and again, five men pulling it into the truck. Eastern Plant is one of the only firms capable of moving giant rhodos.

Two of our dedicated staff are on the left, Aiden and Nick.

Contact us for the best rhodos, native plants, landscape installation and forest work. easternplant@juno.com  phone 207 607 1284

Success! Thanks to everyone involved!

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On liftgate, ready to rise into the air

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Rhododendrons blooming now! Come visit!

06 Tuesday Jun 2017

Posted by easternplant in RHODO, RHODODENDRON, RHODODENDRON GALLERY

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RHODO, RHODODENDRON

 

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A tiny sample of the amazing Rhodos at Eastern Plant

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SPECTACULAR RHODOS AT PEAK — COME SEE THEM

25 Thursday May 2017

Posted by easternplant in RHODODENDRON

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RHODO, RHODODENDRON

mo

 

Colors shapes and sizes you won’t see anywhere else…Field grown in Maine.

Call us at 207 607 1284 or email easternplant@juno.com before coming..Thanks

Visit our spectacular nursery…No other like it

FREE RHODO SEEDLING JUST FOR VISITING

It’s worth a trip to our nursery in Georgetown, Maine!

 

LARGE RHODOS AVAILABLE FOR PICKUP OR DELIVERY

20 Saturday Dec 2014

Posted by easternplant in AVAILABLE LARGE RHODOS, RHODODENDRON

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RHODO, RHODODENDRON, wholesale plants

LARGE RHODODENDRONS GROWN IN MAINE …OUTSIDE

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I HAVE BEEN GROWING RHODOS SINCE AGE 18: YOU ARE BUYING A LIFETIMES WORTH OF EXPERIENCE

…NO OTHER SOURCE FOR MATURE RHODOS THAT HAVE FACED THE REAL WORLD CONDITIONS OURS DO AT EASTERN PLANT

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WHICH MEANS THESE WILL ADAPT EASILY

                 THIS IS A SMALL SAMPLE OF THE LARGE RHODOS AVAILABLE.                            Please check back as this list is expanded.

THEY CAN BE PICKED UP OR WE CAN DELIVER

WE HAVE THOUSANDS IN SMALL SIZES FOR MAIL ORDER AND PICKUP. THAT LIST WILL BE POSTED HERE BY MID JAN. KEEP CHECKING BACK 

THESE LARGE RHODOS ARE IDEAL FOR PROPERTIES WHERE INSTANT EFFECT IS NEEDED. Most are 20 to 35 years old and have been grown in the tough climate of Maine outside. They are well worth the price and make a great plant investment. Please inquire for pricing …come see them. EMAIL easternplant@juno.com

HERE IS IS A SMALL SAMPLE

YAK RHODOS from 2 feet to 8 feet. Yaks are noted for compact growth, hardiness and fuzzy leaves. There are dwarf forms and forms that get to eight feet over many years.

Pictured are Yak Exbury form and Yak Ken Janeck on the right

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BRACHYCARPUM  a very hardy species that blooms in summer. It has tropical looking foliage and can tolerate -35.

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BLEWBERRY narrow foliage on a uniue plant

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TEDDY BEAR we have several giant ones up to 7 feet. Exceptional foliage with cinnaomon colored backsides. Gorgeous bloom

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RHODODENDRON  TEDDY BEAR

RHODODENDRON
TEDDY BEAR

OLIN O DOBBS  striking violet red purple

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MAXIMUM no one…NO ONE, has better maximum rhodos than us …come visit to see them. In addition to our superior “regular” maximum we also have our star:

MAXIMUM OH MY GOSH

RHODODENDRON  OH MY GOSH

RHODODENDRON
OH MY GOSH

RHODODENDRON  OH MY GOSH SHOWING LUSH FOLIAGE

RHODODENDRON
OH MY GOSH
SHOWING LUSH FOLIAGE

 

OUR SUPERIOR REGULAR MAXIMUM RHODOS

Maximum is a native species that blooms in summer and can tolerate alot of shade. No on has maximum rhodos like ours. But first, here is a sad fact: 99% of the maximum rhodos sold, are ripped from the woods on the NC Virginia region, replanted for year then sold. They never look right. I have nothing against proper collecting. But for whatever reason, those collected maximums are just bad. HERE AT EASTERN OURS OUR SEED GROWN FROM VARIOUS SUPERIOR PARENTS. THEY FACE THE COLD OF MAINE. WE HAVE THEM FROM 2 INCHES TO 6 FEET.

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METTERNICHII Silvery new growth

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CATAWBIENSE PURPLE FORM

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KATHERINE DALTON

KATHDAL

DEXTERS PURPLE

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SCINTILLATION

SCINT

SPELLBINDER

SPEL

GOLDFORT

GOLD

PARKERS PINK

PARKERS

FANTASTICA

FANTAS

MAXHAEM SALMON

MAXSAL

PINNACLE

PINNACLE

MONACO

MONACO

MARQUIS OF WATERFORD

MARQUIS

CALSAP

CALSAP

 

ONE OF THE MANY INDUMENTED RHODOS THAT HAVE FUZZY BACKSIDES TO THE LEAVES. WE HAVE MANY LARGE SPECIMENS

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HENRY YATES

P1000292

SCINTILLATION CROSSED WITH WILLIAMSIANUM-NO FORMAL NAME

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LOUISE WINKLER- ONE GIANT SPECIMEN AVAILABLE

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PINNCLE

P1010105

BEN MOSELY

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BABYLON NOT A GOOD PIC

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 MORE ARE AVAILABLE, THIS IS JUST A SAMPLING OF THE LARGE ONES WE HAVE. WE HAVE THOUSANDS OF SMALLER ONES FOR MAIL ORDER OR PICK UP

email easternplant@juno.com

SERVICES: MOVING LARGE PLANTS

18 Thursday Dec 2014

Posted by easternplant in MOVING LARGE PLANTS, SERVICES

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LANDSCAPE, MOVING PLANTS, RHODO, TRANSPLANTING

TRANSPLANTING LARGE PLANTS …ART AND SCIENCE

AT EASTERN PLANT

We have successfully transplanted and moved hundreds of large mature plants over the years, never losing one. If your property has plants that are valuable but would be better moved, contact us. We do go out of state if warranted.

Below is a photo time line example of digging, moving and transplanting a gigantic, 16 foot rhododendron. It had been ripped out of the ground by a windstorm, here in Georgetown, Maine during November 2014.  A new customer contacted me in distress “can you save my rhodo?” After taking a look, I informed the client we could “finish” digging the rhodo, move it and replant it.

Here is the toppled rhodo on the ground. It was uprooted on the back and right side, yet still “attached” in the ground. The weather was damp and wet so the root ball was not in danger of drying out. As you can see, it was originally planted too close to the house, not giving it room to grow. While that was bad, it had the fortunate effect of limiting the root growth on one side where it met the house. Rhodos are shallow rooted with wide, spreading roots. When we move them, we dig a wide, pancake type rootball. I suggested to the client after digging the rhodo, it be moved out a few feet to give it a bit more room. The soil it was in was typical stony/sandy/loam which is perfect for rhodos.

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I carefully went around the root zone area determining where most of the roots were before any digging was done. Luckily the root ball was still intact and not cracked to any large degree. Here is Ted carefully checking the root ball and going under it removing embedded rocks. At this point we have severed the root ball about 80& around. You can see how the root ball is right up against the foundation.

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The root ball is now severed. We have gently and carefully scraped the bottom of the root ball to remove more rocks embedded and loose soil to reduce the weight. Without a tractor*, lifting such a root ball is nearly impossible. (*when possible they can be used)

You can see these are not the typical dimensions of a rootball often seen, that would have been narrower but deeper. Had this root ball been dug that way, too many of the roots would have been destroyed and the rhodo would not have survived. There are no roots below 8 inches or so on a rhodo.

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While no pic of the event, we now use a truck to gently pull the severed root ball forward. Two of us will be lifting the main trunks slightly so they are off the ground as the truck pulls. Didn’t get a pic but success ..we pulled the ball forward 18 inches with zero damage.  Now on to uprighting the rhododendron, slowly in stages.

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We had the boards shown ready as supports. With three of us, we got the rhodo up to 45 degrees … not viisible but there is a rope from the main trunks that is anchored out of view toward the back, so it can’t drop down. The towels are against the trunk to prevent scraping the bark. The boards are supporting the front. This plant weighed probably 700-900 pounds.

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Same progress point with a different view. While ideally we would have wanted to move the rhodo out even further, there were logistics that prevented that but you can see it’s now out 18 inches from the foundation, where before it was flush against it. So far no damage and everything is going smoothly. That large stake on bottom right will be one of 2, used as anchors for the rope supporting the rhodo (you can see the temporary rope now loosened)

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The rhodo is now at almost 80 degrees upright. Ted has carefully begun to fill in with soil below the root ball, since as we lift the front of the rhodo, the root ball now has air pockets. NOTE: no soil has been filled in around the edges yet.

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Ted now begins to fill in the expanded planting bed with soil. The soil is only loosely filled in ad NOT compacted or walked on. Rhodos need loose, airy soil. Pressing in too hard, walking on the rootball and packing in the soil now would hurt the rhodo. So it is just gently firmed in by hand. The soil we brought in was just native soil, like that the rhodo had grown in. The HUGE MISTAKE most make, including most landscapers, is trying to add “better” soil with peat, compost, manure etc. That’s all wrong. If the rhodo was in native soil and doing fine, just add more of that. See the article on this blog about soil.

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SUCCESS! After finishing the soil fill, the rhodo was mulched with oak leaves…the best mulch for them, then watered in. The rope stakes in back will remain for a year. The wooden board stakes will remain thru winter as a safeguard. Client, below, was more than happy. A thirty to fifty year old rhodo successfully saved and moved. I want to thank Ted for his dedicated help on this job and the client as well: his extra hands were needed for the uprighting!

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 Email: easternplant@juno.com   Phone 207 607 1284 (poor service, leave message)

EASTERN PLANT AND WILDWALKWAYS

RARE PLANTS …LANDSCAPE CONSULTATION/INSTALLATION…TREE WORK

AND A DESTINATION POINT TO OUR WILDWALKWAYS TRAILS

GEORGETOWN, MAINE …COME VISIT!

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TREE WORK

WE HAVE SOURCES FOR PLANTS FEW OTHER FIRMS HAVE

FALL AND WINTER SCENES AT THE NURSERY AND WILDWALKWAYS

15 Monday Dec 2014

Posted by easternplant in FALL AND WINTER NURSERY SCENES

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Tags

photo, PHOTOGRAPHY, RARE PLANT, RHODO

THIS PHOTO JOURNAL CAN ONLY GIVE A GLIMPSE OF EVERYTHING  TO SEE. CHECK BACK AS WE ADD TO IT.

Email easternplant@juno.com …More than a nursery in scenic Georgetown, Maine!   HIKE…LEARN…PICNIC…BIRD WATCH…PHOTOGRAPH…GET GREAT PLANTS

PHOTOS CAN BE CLICKED ON TO ENLARGE IN MOST BROWSERS

WORDS CAN’T DESCRIBE THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF THE LAKE WE FRONT ON

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BELOW IS THE SCENIC, SMALLER LAKE (mostly out of view in pic) ON THE WILDWALKWAYS TRAILS AT EASTERN PLANT …MOOSE FREQUENT HERE. THIS VIEW IS ABOUT MIDWAY ON THE PROPERTY OF 20 ACRES. MOST OF THE ACTIVE NURSERY IS MORE TOWARDS THE FRONT. WILDWALKWAYS TRAILS START THERE AND MEANDER BY THE LAKE EDGE, THEN TRANSITION TO MORE OF A WILDERNESS TYPE SETTING SUCH AS THIS, EVENTUALLY LEADING TO A DRAMATIC SALT MARSH, CLIFF AND WATERFALL.

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A COVE ON THE LARGE LAKE IN FRONT OF EASTERN PLANT  AND WILDWALKWAYS. NOTE THE LILY PAD LEAVES STILL FLOATING. NO OTHER NURSERY HAS A SETTING LIKE THIS.

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BACKING UP A BIT. NOTE THE MILKWEED IN FOREGROUND. BUTTERFLIES ABOUND

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MILKWEED SEED PODS BURSTING OPEN – OUR FIELD HAS THOUSANDS

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LAKEFRONT DURING ICE STORM EARLY DECEMBER 2014. THIS WAS NOT PREDICTED …IT HAD A MAGICAL FEEL. THE LAKE IS EDGED IN CLUMPS OF SPHAGNUM MOSS AND A MYRIAD OF NATIVE PLANTS. A GREAT LAKE FOR CANOEING.

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WHITE PINES AND SPRUCE COVERED IN ICE WITH FROZEN MIST AT THE EDGE OF THE LAKE. THE FEEL NEAR THE LAKE IS ONE OF TOTAL WILDERNESS.

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HIMALAYAN HEMLOCK AND ANDROMEDA AND COATED WITH ICE. WE HAVE ONE OF THE BIGGEST ANDROMEDAS IN THE ENTIRE STATE. THE HIMALAYAN HEMLOCK IS VERY RARE, WE HAVE TWO THAT SURVIVED OUR DEVASTATING TORNADO.

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RHODO BUDS COVERED IN ICE. THE RHODO IS THE SPECIES BRACHYCARPUM. WE OFFER SOME OF THE FINEST “BRACHYS” ANYWHERE. IT IS ONE OF THE HARDIEST RHODODENDRONS KNOWN AND A SUMMER BLOOMER.

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LEAVES COMPLETELY COATED TO A HALF INCH THICK

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JUST OFF THE OLD LOGGING ROAD THAT BISECTS THE NURSERY.  A WINTER WONDERLAND WITH TRAILS EVERYWHERE. THE LAKE IS TO THE LEFT AND A WOODLAND POND TO THE RIGHT.

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SPECTACULAR FOLIAGE OF RHODODENDRON TEDDY BEAR WITH COPPERY BACKSIDES- THE BIGGEST SPECIMENS IN THE COUNTRY LIVE HERE …COME SEE THEM!

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TOWARD THE BACK OF THE WILDWALKWAYS TRAILS ARE MOSS COVERED BOULDERS AND CLIFFS …IT TRULY FEELS LIKE NEPAL. THAT’S AN ICE FLOW ON THE LEFT. THIS AREA IS MY FAVORITE ON THE ENTIRE PROPERTY. (though there are many!)

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THIS GORGEOUS WOODLAND STREAM RUNS FOR ABOUT A THOUSAND FEET THRU WILDWALKWAYS. PHOTO ON RIGHT IS LOOKING FROM ABOVE, THERE ARE NUMEROUS SMALL WATERFALLS ON THE STREAM AND MANY EXCITING ECOSYSTEMS.

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HERE’S A TRAIL THAT MEANDERS BETWEEN TWO TALL PITCH PINES NEAR THE LAKE. THERE’S A SITTING AREA AT THE TOP OF THIS TRAIL WHICH OVERLOOKS THE LAKE

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A ROCK OUTCROP COVERED IN FERNS AND A SPECIAL LICHEN CALLED ROCK TRIPE. WE WILL HAVE AN ARTICLE JUST ABOUT THAT UNIQUE ROCK TRIPE LICHEN IN THE FUTURE. IT IS A MAJOR ATTRACTION FOR VISITORS. THE SMALL POND YOU SEE IS WHERE WE DUG AND SOLD A HUGE RHODODENDRON LAST YEAR. IT WENT TO NJ.

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IT’S A FUNGI LOVERS DREAM HERE ON ALL THE TRAILS AT WILDWALKAYS

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THERE ARE TWO STREAMS, THIS IS THE SMALLER ONE. BOTH ARE MOSS LINED AND STREWN WITH BOULDERS AND NATURALIZED PLANTINGS. NOTHING ARTIFICIAL

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THE LAKE WE FRONT ON IS 20 ACRES; WE ARE ONE OF ONLY 3  PROPERTIES ON IT. THERE IS A TOTALLY NORTHERN, WILDERNESS  FEEL. TRAILS MEANDER ALONG OUR ENTIRE LAKEFRONT THEN TO THE BACK FOREST & CLIFFS. BRING YOUR CANOE!

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RHODO AND HEMLOCK WEIGHTED WITH ICE. ON THE RIGHT IS OUR SPECIAL LEUCOTHOE WE CALL PERFECTION. IT IS MUCH MORE RESISTANT TO LEAF SPOT THAN ANY OTHER LEUCOTHOE. A GORGEOUS TALL GROUNDCOVER IN A SOMEWHAT SHADED SPOT. IN WINTER IT TAKES ON EYE CATCHING REDDISH COLORATIONS …INQUIRE

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IN ADDITION TO LAKEFRONT AND STREAMS, WE HAVE SEVERAL SMALL POND AREAS. NO NEED FOR MANMADE WATER FEATURES AT EASTERN PLANT AND WILDWALKWAYS

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LOOK CLOSE, THIS PHOTO WAS TAKEN DECEMBER 12, 2014. THOSE ARE REAL BLUEBERRIES ON THAT LOWBUSH BLUEBERRY IN SNOW-AFTER LOWS OF 10 ABOVE. THERE IS A PATCH OF LOWBUSH WE HAVE THAT ALWAYS BLOOMS IN SEPT. YES. THE BERRIES REALLY DON’T HAVE TIME TO RIPEN, BUT DUE TO THE WARM OCT. AND EARLY NOV THEY ALMOST DID.

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A SIMPLE CLUMP OF GRASS …TURNED INTO ART

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THE ICE LEAF! I CAREFULLY REMOVED THIS SHEATH OF ICE THAT FORMED ON A RHODO LEAF..IT FELL APART BUT I GOT ONE PIC BEFORE IT DID. THE ICE LEAF IS 12 INCHES LONG, IT WAS ON A RHODO CALOPHYTUM, NOTED FOR HUGE LEAVES.

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A PATCH OF OVER 1000, 2 YEAR OLD RHODOS OF THE FINEST KIND TUCKED IN FOR WINTER IN THEIR FLATS, WITH PINE NEEDLE MULCH ON THE EDGES. THEY ARE WAITING FOR YOU. EASTERN IS THE ONLY NURSERY THAT OVERWINTERS RHODODENDRONS OUTSIDE (we know of) THAT’S HOW NATURE DOES IT!

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 BONFIRE IN THE FALL OVERLOOKING THE LAKE

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THE BACK MOST PROPERTY AT EASTERN PLANT. WHILE ITS NOT THE ARCTIC, IT SURE FELT LIKE IT. THIS WAS LAST WINTER. PIC WAS TAKEN BY OUR FRIEND BRIAN WITT-THAT’S HIS DOG SOPHIE ON THE “LIFE LIKE” TUNDRA!

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ICE, SNOW AND WINTER DARKNESS

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FADING SUNSET ACROSS THE LAKE

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PHOTO FROM OCTOBER SHOWING HUGE SEED PODS ON RHODO MARKS VANILLA; IT’S FRAGRANT, PEACHY COLORED AND HAS A TROPICAL GROWTH HABIT. YES IT ALWAYS BLOOMS HERE, EVEN AFTER LAST YEARS 19 BELOW ZERO!

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EASTERN PLANT AND WILDWALKWAYS. RARE PLANTS, RHODOS, NATIVES, WILDFLOWERS, FERNS AND A UNIQUE TRAIL SYSTEM THRU OUR FOREST

 OUR LAKE IN A WINTER MOOD2013-02-25_08-09-20_899

 OUR CAT CANDY ENJOYING THE VIEW, WHICH LOOKS OUT TO THE LAKE 2013-03-07_08-34-53_770

 RED DOOR IN THE WOODS ...STORY FOR ANOTHER DAY!  INTRIGUE AND MYSTERY! …BRIAN WITT PHOTO

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FORGET EVERYTHING YOU KNOW ABOUT SOIL WHEN GROWING RHODODENDRONS

02 Tuesday Dec 2014

Posted by easternplant in RHODODENDRON, SOIL

≈ 16 Comments

Tags

RHODO, RHODODENDRON, SOIL

FORGET EVERYTHING YOU KNOW ABOUT SOIL WHEN GROWING RHODODENDRONS …a  must read!

rhodowater

A SHOCKING TITLE BUT I HAD TO GET YOUR ATTENTION

Hopefully this article will cause some commotion and controversy because it goes against much of what is often stated as good advice in books and articles on rhodos and their ***relatives. This info comes from forty years observations “connecting the dots” and experiences in mind …that leads to success with rhodos and their close plant cousins. As some background: I started growing rhodos and their many relatives at the young age of 16, first in NJ, then in Maine, where I formed the Maine Rhodo society many years back. Having grown and sold countless rhodos, watched them in the wild, observed many gardens and nurseries over decades and seeing countless growing methods …well, all that gives this discussion a little weight.

*** First, this article pertains to rhodos and their relatives, that include:  Azaleas, Blueberry, Mountain Laurel, Andromeda, Leucothoe, Trailing Arbutus, Wintergreen, Cranberry, Huckleberry, Heaths and Heathers, Oxydendrum …among others.

DON’T FORGET TO READ THE COMMENTS AT THE END  …MORE GOOD INFO!

…..Let the commotion begin, with a no holds barred statement of fact:

THE BLACK DIRT SOIL BELOW IS TOXIC & DEADLY TO RHODOS                         AND THEIR RELATIVES …OVER TIME

blackdirt

I CAN SEE YOU SHAKING YOUR HEAD & THROWING ROTTEN TOMATOES AT ME!   At least the tomatoes might like that soil. Aren’t we all told how black, rich dirt and dirt with earthworms is so great for plants. Well, truth is, that’s wrong and deadly over time for rhodos and their many relatives, in spite of what countless books and articles say! Yes Rhodos and their friends need some organic matter, of the right type, but this isn’t it! The right type of organic matter: leaves, semi decayed from oak are the best but there are other good things …read on.

100% BLACK DIRT EQUALS BAD DIRT FOR RHODOS  Though the bad effects might not be apparent right away and that is why people often don’t make the right connections when growing rhodos. They may do well for a time in this type of dirt, but then a slow decline can begin. WHY? Before I describe why this soil is bad, further down, I want to make clear, I’m talking where the entire soil structure down to 6 inches or more, is this heavily organic, black dirt. (not naturally peaty, brown, woods soil …that, is generally a good thing.)

WHERE DO RHODOS OCCUR IN NATURE  Remember this, rhodos, (and azaleas) in the vast majority of times, do not occur in nature where the soil is like this, so it makes sense (connecting the dots) it’s not their favorite thing to grow in. Many plants are very adaptable to types of soil they can thrive in. That is not the case with rhodos and their relatives. (yet they are not hard if common sense is followed) Generally in nature, rhodos are found in forests with a layer of rotting leaves in the top few inches and then gravelly or loamy soil below, that’s the rule but there are exceptions. They can be found on exposed mountain ridges in very thin soil. Often there might be be clay just 4-5 inches down in the soil layer where they grow naturally. BUT wait! All the references say they don’t like clay. THIS IS ONLY PARTLY TRUE. If the clay is undisturbed and not compacted, they can grow fine in it, if it’s the lower soil layer. For example, in the Smokies there are rhodos and azaleas often in thin soil, that has a clay layer just a few inches down but it’s not compacted. Another example: in central NJ where I grew up, there were countless azalea and blueberries growing in layered soil. That soil was decayed and semi decayed oak leaves in the top 3 to 4 inches, then, generally loose uncompacted clay transitioning below. I recall a dear plant friend at the time, Pam Proctor of Englewood, NJ saying those layers of soil were like a cake. They were and that’s how healthy soil, undisturbed by man should be.  Unfortunately most clay soils are hard and compacted from mans use, construction & development …so are not suitable as is. There is plenty of advice on “amending soil” but literally no mention of how healthy soil is layered and transitions as I am describing. Sadly, there really isn’t much info out there that talks about why certain plants die or don’t do well, often just the wrong info is told over and over. Many of the common reasons given don’t tell the whole story. The gardener often thinks its their fault. “I followed all the guidelines I read” they might say and the plant still died, so they might even give up on those plants, thinking they are difficult, when in fact, it was wrong information they used that led to the plants demise.

OK, WHY IS BLACK 100% ORGANIC DIRT BAD FOR RHODOS AND THEIR KIN

1) This black dirt is MUCH MORE PRONE to soil compaction than sandy soil. Soil compaction is a slow killer of rhodos. This is a very important fact. Tread lightly! Just a few “walkings” over the root zone of a rhodo, where soil is like this, does harm. Remember, rhodo roots are very shallow and very delicate, they rip apart easily and do not grow back fast. The hairlike roots of rhodos that take up moisture are incredibly fine and need that well drained, yet semi leafy type soil to thrive …not black dirt. One can easily make this type of good dirt and for less cost and effort than doing the normal but wrong soil prep. Walking over the roots of a rhodo when its loamy or sandy soil is still not good, but not nearly as bad, as that soil does not compress as easily.

2) Rich, black dirt attracts earthworms which are very bad for rhodos …see write up on that below. It is 100% certain earthworms are bad for rhodos though not widely known. If you see them in your soil, pluck them out; find a fisherman friend!

3) It is the wrong texture for rhodo roots. While it might be friable INITIALLY, it does not stay that way. Rhodos after a few years in this totally black dirt, will have shrinking root systems!

4) The ph is often too high

5) 100% black dirt is not typical dirt. Normal dirt has a component of sand, silt, clay and organic matter.

6) Whatever the organic matter is, in this black dirt, as it breaks down it becomes slimy, holds too much water and does not allow air in or conversely, can become resistant to absorbing water when it gets dry…two bad situations. While INITIALLY ok, the long term effect of overly organic soil is deadly.

7) Are you saying “but the soil mix in the pot I bought them in was rich organic soil.” OK… but that was in a nursery setting, with controlled watering, and chemicals possibly to keep diseases in check. The FRESH organic matter in the form of bark, etc. in pots. is great for growing rhodos for the grower, for a short time, until that bark breaks down. But it’s not great for long term results. Sadly, what’s good for the grower may not be good for you the customer. AT EASTERN PLANT our soil mix is part sand, part real dirt from the forest and sometimes perlite (volcanic rock) Our plants see the dirt of the real world, so they can adapt. The analogy is a kid that plays outside in the woods, builds up a better immune system than one that stays in. Rhodos and really any plant grown in real world conditions are MUCH TOUGHER & MORE RESILIENT.

8) If your black dirt is from adding manure that’s another big NO NO. I wont go into why any manure is bad but as the old phrase goes …”just say no to manure” and that’s no BS!

9) When there is this thick, near solid layer of organic matter on top of the existing soil, whatever that soil is, there becomes a huge problem with the “interfacing” of those two layers in that they don’t connect as a whole.

LESSONS LEARNED …A TRUE LIFE EXPERIENCE OF MINE All the above also comes from a personal story and learning experience I had the hard way back in NJ when getting started. I brought in truckloads of compost AND filled the yard with it. Bought tons of rhodos …they did fine for a year then I noticed the root systems were actually getting smaller on the rhodos. Plus, I had to water all the time. Then I saw the earthworm explosion. (didn’t connect those dots yet) Why aren’t my rhodos thriving, no one had the answer. I then began adding and mixing sand into the compost soil. That certainly helped but it still wasn’t right. It took connecting the dots …and years of observations to get the answers. I want to save you that time!

AND OTHERS EXPERIENCES Please read Kathlin Smiths comments below on her real life experience; it perfectly ties in to my comments.  (As do the others …all worth reading.)

SOME EXAMPLES OF GOOD RHODO SOIL

THIS SOIL BELOW IS IDEAL FOR RHODOS & RESEMBLES MANY OF THE AREAS THEY GROW IN NATURALLY. THAT MIGHT SURPRISE MANY LAYEREDGRAVELSOILsoillayer

In these two pics we see natural soil layering, which is a healthy soil. In nature, the soil layering and type you see above in these pics, is often the type where rhodos are found in their native habitats …NOT the black dirt pic before it with soil in hand.

Look close at the first pic above….the rock and sandy gravel is obvious but the organic layer in the top 6 inches may not be. So yes, all the references that rhodos need organic matter is TRUE, but it is usually over done, which ultimately can kill them. Picture your self in a forest as above and you are a plant. You do not have a landscaper come each spring or fall and put 4, 5 or 6 inches of compost or bark over your roots …no! Yet what does happen, each year, the leaves from surrounding trees fall …and gently cover the earth and your roots, creating the ideal mulch nature intended. As those leaves or conifer nedles decay, they create a spongy yet airy texture …just the right texture for rhodo type roots to grow in. NOT the pebbly texture worms create.

There are nutrients in the clay type soil that is often 4-6 inches down. Gravel, sand, & rock provide lots of trace minerals often not present in rich, black dirt.

Soil like this, with a sand component will always drain well and over the long term gives great results. Sand, gravelly soil or well drained loam is more vital to rhodo success than organic material …you heard it here!

If you have a natural forest or woods that are undisturbed, they are a good indicator of your soil. Generally, if you have oaks/hickory/beech/conifers, that is a good sign. If you have mostly maples and Ash, that’s generally a bad sign. It doesn’t mean you can’t plant rhodos, just that your native soil might not be ideal. If you have mostly pines/spruces/hemlocks and or mixed with oak, that generally indicates good woodsy soil with that excellent layered soil I am talking about …in many cases all you have to do is dig a shallow hole and plant …no soil fixing needed.

BLACK DIRT INVITES THIS LITTLE GUY! HE IS NOT YOUR FRIEND

earthworm

I’M AN EARTHWORM …I KILL RHODOS AND THEIR FRIENDS

FACT: Earthworms are bad for plants in the rhodo family, that includes: Azaleas, Blueberry & Cranberry-Vaccinium, Mountain Laurel-Kalmia, Leucothoe, Trailing Arbutus-Epigea, Wintergreen/Teaberry-Gaultheria, Heaths/Heathers, Sorrel Tree-Oxydendrum …among others.

Earthworms we see are not native to most areas …they were brought from Europe.

See the picture of soil below and its pebbly, crumbly texture. You might think (and books often say) it’s great for all plants, especially rhodos …experts say “its so friable and perfect.” NO and its deadly for rhodos. That pebbly, crumbly texture is from earthworm castings. It ‘might’ be good for tomatoes, lilacs and many other plants but it’s deadly over time for rhodos and their relatives. Add to that, “earthworm soil” tends not to be acid enough for these plants. Step on that earthworm type soil a few times and it becomes compacted muck. Thanks to commenter Deborah Banks for mentioning how earthworms actually destroy the natural leaf litter that is the perfect mulch; see the rest of her comments below.

EARTHWORM TYPE SOIL …BAD FOR RHODOSpelletizedsoil

WET SOIL  According to all the books, rhodos do not like wet sites and that is generally true…but there ARE EXCEPTIONS if you live in Northern climates. The species maximum (which we grow and have exceptional plants of) CAN tolerate wetter soil in northern climates. One of the reasons for this is that one of the root funguses really cant do well in northern climes as the soil temperature is too low for it. So being up north can have advantages. We have maximum rhodos right on our lake, with roots in water during times of the year. THIS IS NOT recommended though, just an example that R. maximum can tolerate wet sites in cool summer areas.

SOIL AND MULCH  The ONLY organic mulches you should use are oak, hickory or beech leaves or pine needles. Gravel can be used as a mulch. Never ever use hardwood bark or chips as mulch …”just say no to hardwood bark as mulch.” Thanks to commenter Dave Delucia for mentioning that Maple leaves should not be used as mulch and why. They mat down, become slimy and do not let air in, they can actually smother small plants too. You can see the rest of his comments below. (all true)

OAK LEAVES ARE NATURES PERFECT MULCHoakleaves

SOIL AND OVER MULCHING SOIL PROBLEMS  Over time I have seen countless rhodo gardens go down hill when they were planted in black dirt and or were mulched with bark, too much of it, for many years. This might be totally contradictory to what you have read …but it’s fact. The overmulching fad is one of the biggest scams in horticultural history. All it does is allow incompetent landscape firms to get business …and spread “pretty mulch.” So if you must mulch, don’t over do it.

THE FACT IS I’VE SEEN RHODOS THRIVING WHEN JUST PLANTED INTO PROPER NATIVE SOIL WITH NO AMENDMENTS.

P1010851

IN CONCLUSION  Here at Eastern Plant, 99% of the time when we plant rhodos, we make no soil improvements. We dig a shallow hole, plant, fill in loosely and mulch ONCE with oak leaves or pine needles.THAT’S IT. The rhodos then thrive. I realize many people don’t have the ideal soil we have here, but the important point is not to overdo soil prep and not over mulch and minimize soil compaction by treading lightly around your plants

Eastern Plant, the best rhododendrons in the Eastern U.S. Visit!Grown outside in Maines harsh climate. Tougher, hardier, just better!

Eastern Plant & WildWalkWays Trails …much more than a nursery!

EASTERN PLANT Georgetown, Maine  EMAIL easternplant@juno.com       MAILORDER AND PICK UP: Rhodos, Ferns, Wildflowers, Natives                  Landscape Design, Planting & Consultation  Tree Work & Forest Management            WE TRAVEL! WITH LANDSCAPE CLIENTS THRU ALL NEW ENGLAND

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COMING SOON …article …”Why Grow Wildflowers” …with culture info 
Eastern Plant …a leading supplier of wildflowers for 25 years!
GIFT CERTIFICATES ARE AVAILABLE FOR ANY GARDENING FRIEND AS ARE PASSES TO OUR WILDWALKWAYS TRAIL SYSTEM. JUST EMAIL US easternplant@juno.com
Some wildflowers & ferns are still available for shipping even though it’s Dec.
Eastern Plant & WildWalkWays Trails …much more than a nursery!

 

 

 

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