RHODODENDRON MAIL ORDER AVAILABILITY (pick up too)

21 Sunday Dec 2014

Posted by easternplant in AVAILABLE RHODOS MAIL ORDER

Tags

growing rhodo, HARDY RHODO, liner, RARE PLANT, RHODODENDRON

OOPS THIS SECTION IS NOT COMPLETE. THERE ARE MORE THAN LISTED …KEEP COMING BACK …MUCH MORE TO FOLLOW…INQUIRE

OUR RHODODENDRONS …ONLY THE BEST! LET US CONVINCE YOU WHY THEY ARE HARDIER & MORE ADAPTABLE THAN ANY OTHER RHODOS! FOR ALL GARDENERS IN NEW ENGLAND, THE MID ATLANTIC TO THE MIDWEST.

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WE FEEL VERY STRONGLY ABOUT THIS. OVER THE LAST 30 YEARS TONS OF INFERIOR RHODOS HAVE BEEN MARKETED, PROMOTED AND SOLD. AND IT HAS TURNED OFF MANY PEOPLE TO THE WONDERFUL WORLD OF RHODOS. FROM DAY ONE, EASTERN WAS NEVER PART OF THAT TREND. SEVERAL NURSERIES THAT WERE, ARE OUT OF BUSINESS. EASTERN AND OUR PHILOSOPHY OF ONLY THE BEST HAS STOOD THE TEST OF TIME

Ours are grown here in Maine, zone 5, from day one and they winter over outside so they are tough! They are exposed to the real world unlike greenhouse grown rhodos. Eastern is now one of the longest lasting East coast nurseries growing rhodos!

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You won’t find these selections any where else—these are not common unreliable varieties found at big box stores that might be cheap but rarely live. There are hundreds better & that’s what we offer …varieties with superb foliage, later or earlier blooming, in colors and textures that give year round interest and hardiness. All are tested for ten, twenty, thirty years to make sure they are garden worthy–no other nursery does that. They offer year round beauty not just in bloom.

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We grow them in flats that over winter outside—why flats …because rhodo roots are shallow. When you buy those grown in deep pots, the plants will stress out once planted, as the deeper roots will die–often killing the plant. Growing them in flats makes for a healthier plant …the roots will adapt. They take longer to grow here in Maine resulting in a tougher, hardier, more adaptable plant …yes I keep saying that but it is true! Sadly, too many inferior varieties of rhodos have been sold and promoted elsewhere, and that may have discouraged some. Rest assured, Eastern has never done that, 30 years in the business shows it.

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Our rhodos have STOOD THE TEST OF TIME. PS: we founded the Maine Rhodo Society and are slowly turning our wonderful property into a rhodo haven. COST …many say are prices are very good …a few say they are high, they are not, as the time it takes to grow them here is longer for a quality plant. I ask this, would you rather your rhodos thrive and prosper a lifetime and pay a little more in the beginning…seems wise. It has taken a LIFETIME to amass the special varieties we have–many more to follow.

A SMALL SAMPLING OF WHAT’S AVAILABLE FOR MAIL ORDER (AND PICK UP)

EMAIL US easternplant@juno.com

‘CYNOSHURE’

A superb late blooming rhodo that always performs yet is rarely seen. It features lush, large dark green leaves and a plant covered in Rich, large deep pink flowers with peachy highlights—the flowers really glow, are long lasting and appear when most others have finished. Hybridized by the Shapiros in NJ who created some very nice things and considered it their finest. This is hardy fully here in coastal Maine. Easy to care for and well branched. Exceptional dark and large foliage too–pretty all year and makes into a full broad plant. 3 years old 10-12 inch $49 12-15 inch $55

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CALOPHYTUM

This is a VERY SELECT FORM of this large leafed species rhodo and of the earliest to bloom in spring. It is the hardiest and y far best form of calophytum I have ever seen, being much bushier and self branching than any other calophytum and importantly, hardier too. Flowers are huge, starting light pink going to white with a dramatic, rasberry colored blotch. It will bloom most years even here in coastal Maine and would be ideal in any location further south. Leaves can be 10 inches long on older plants with a heavily veined, bluish sheen. Right after I moved to Maine I got this from Louise Winkler—she and her late husband Walter moved to Maine from NJ in the 1970s and had an incredible garden in Cundys Harbor. She became my “mom away from home” for twenty years. Louise died in 2004. I miss you Louise—know that several of your special plants are treasured here. zones 5-7 3 years old 6 inch spread $50 9 inch spread $60 Well worth every penny.

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SUTCHENENSE HARDY FORM A very select form of a large leafed species similar to calophytum above in most every way. A bit larger growing & flower buds are rounded as opposed to egg shaped. Both rarely seen & you would be one of the few to have them in your garden. zones 5-7 3 year old 6-8 inch spread $45

FORTUNII ‘WALBRECHT FORM’

This is a select species of rhododendron with a great story. These are propagated from a gorgeous plant of this I saw at the garden of Ed Walbrecht in New Harbor, Maine. I would not be in Maine if it wasn’t for Ed Walbrecht–seeing his garden in 1987 was the inspiration for me to move to Maine from NJ. (I miss you Ed) This select form of the species has large, blue tinted leaves with colorful veining and very stocky but large habit. Hardy in coastal Maine & importantly, adaptable as far south as NJ/DEL/MD. Huge pastel pink flowers have a light fragrance and open in June. This desirable species is a must & so much better than all the common rhodos ones sees. zones 5-7 6-8 inch $36 8 to 12 inch $47 12-15 inch $55 Note: The species Fortunii was used in breeding by Charles Dexter, whos hybrids are great & we carry several of those also.

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RHODO MARKS VANILLA

RHODODENDRON
MARKS VANILLA

‘MARKS VANILLA’ There are very few hardy and fragrant rhodos…this is one of them and is a wonderful and exciting hybrid of mine, with an enchanting, vanilla like fragrance—truly an aromatic treat. The large flowers are a unique light amber color. (It’s a cross of Dexter 281B with Janet Blair—Dexter hybrids are superb and Janet Blair is a great hybrid–so this has two great parents) The tropical looking leaves have a very waxy, distinctive shine with an eyecatching, granny smith apple green color. It becomes a big, bold treelike plant with impressive stature. Blooms very heavily after a few years. 6-8 inch $ 40 9-12 inch $49 12-15 inch $55 TESTED FOR TWENTY YEAR IN MAINE, surviving last years 20 below!

RHODO OH MY GOSH

RHODODENDRON
OH MY GOSH

— BLOOMS IN SUMMER Named after a client saw this and said “Oh My Gosh.” This select form of the rhodo species maximum is very compact and lush with sensationally thick leaves having a gentle twist. (it is in some ways similar to what is sold as “Curly Leaf” maximum but it is SO MUCH BETTER and the leaves are wavy, not distorted and twisted like curly leaf.) OH MY GOSH is the LAST rhodo to bloom here, blooming in late July, often extending into early August—bloom has a cheerful, bright coral pink tinge at first, then going to near white. The opening flowers have much more pink than any other maximum I have seen. A unique trait is that the flowers open at different times, extending the overall display to a month. You can also see next years flower buds forming, right next to a branch that is blooming–no other rhodo is like that. OH MY GOSH is very slow growing when young, but becomes a full, incredibly lush plant that has never been bothered by even the worst winter. Truly tropical in its look. Fully hardy zones 4-7 Not cheap yet full of value, 3 years old 2-3 inch $29 patience…it will grow. (a few larger at the nursery) Our huge parent plant is admired by every visitor. (One client offered an outrageous sum for it…I said no!)

MAXIMUM RHODO-OUR “REGULAR” SUPERIOR FORMS

BRACHYCARPUM SELECT FORM

Possibly the hardiest species on the planet and to boot it has superb foliage. “Brachy” has tropical looking leaves which shine all year. As a bonus it blooms in summer, when most rhodos are finished. OUR SPECIAL FORM OF BRACHY HAS LARGER FLOWERS THAN MOST AND INCREDIBLY TROPICAL LOOKING LEAVES with a shine. The pink tinged, white flowers cover the plants, and while not huge add a burst of bloom that is 100% dependable–brachy can survive 35 BELOW ZERO–hardy even in Minnesota! When grown in sun it remains compact to 4-5 feet wide and tall. When grown in shade it is more open but still retaining its tropical look with highly lustrous leaves. Several sizes 3-4 inch $16 4-6 inch $25 8-12 inch $55 We have grown hundreds of brachys over the years to select out only the best of the best ..every visitor comments on them, most take one or more home.

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‘YAK EXBURY’ ULTRA DWARF

Yak rhodos are noted for their fuzzy coated leaves. Exbury is considered the finest smaller growing yaks. These are seedling grown & even dwarfer than Exbury. 3 year old plants are only a few inches across! Flowers emerge coral, age to glistening white. Fully hardy zones 5-7. 3 years old $25

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‘SON OF TEDDY BEAR’

RHODODENDRON
TEDDY BEAR

These are selfed seedlings of the famous Teddy Bear rhodo. They offer incredible shiny foliage with soft downy coating on the backside, compact growth & luminous coral pink flowers that age to white. Visit us to see the biggest Teddy Bears on the east coast: magnificent & 10 feet across–but get a small one now for yourself. A plant that’s pretty all year. zones 5-7. 3 years old 4-5 inch $25 5-6 inch $35

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‘YELLOW EYES’

This is a special and rare selection of the small leaved species carolinianum. (Native to NC but fully hardy in New England) Unlike common forms this has white flowers with a striking golden orange flare.Yellow Eyes likes well drained soil and can tolerate full sun. Foliage is small and shiny, forming a bushy plant to six feet high and wide in time; new growth is coppery colored as well. 3-5 inches $17 6-8 inches $21

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JURASSIC JUNGLE (cross of CS Sargent X Calophytum)

My intro with huge tropical leaves. This gets EVERYONES ATTENTION!!! White flowers have small red blotch, forms a giant yet full plant with long, dark lustrous foliage up to a foot long. Blooms early but after calophtyum itself. I have it next to the famous hybrid Spellbinder, and this is rated superior by all especially for its dramatic leaves. zones 5-7 3 years old 9-12 inch $50

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ARBORESCENS AZALEA ‘STARSHIMMER’

Often called the SWEET AZALEA–for its remarkable sweet aroma. A standout native deciduous azalea with fragrant, really fragrant white flowers in June. This is selected from a superior form at the famous Asticou gardens in Maine for its larger flowers and is a hardy species with very nice glossy foliage having blue tints. The sparkling white flowers have distinctive reddish anthers and last for several weeks—perfuming a large area. It grows to six feet and forms a dense, bushy plant, attractive even when not in bloom; best in at least partial sun. 12 inch $25 16 inch $24

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BAKERI AZALEA SPECIAL FORM

Finally a few to offer. Propagated from a superb plant at the York, Maine “welcome center” we have watched for 30 years. It has luminous, orangy salmon flowers on a full plant with exceptional dark foliage that shines. This is the best Bakeri I have ever seen–with a glow that is truly breathtaking. As it blooms in June, it offers color when most things have finished. Bakeri is a deciduous azalea, hardy zones 5-7. 12-15 inches $24

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VASEYI AZALEA

This native azalea has refined apple blossom pink flowers as the leaves emerge. It also has brilliant, red orange fall color. Upright habit to 6 feet. Propagated from a superior plant in Brunswick, Maine (not native, the highway dept must planted it years ago.) hardy zones 5-7. 8-10 inches $15 12-14 inches $17

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RHODORA CANADENSE

The treasured Rhodora, native to Maine & cool spots in New England. This deciduous rhododendron blooms fairly early with lacy, light purple flowers. Unlike most rhodos it can tolerate wet spots & likes full sun. Small blue tinted leaves turn orange & purple in fall. Grows to 2-3 feet in a bushy mound. Propagated from a superior clear lavender form here in Maine. Not for southern areas, best in New England, Mich., cool coastal areas. hardy zones 3-7. 6-8 inches $14

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DREAMLAND PINK SPECIAL MOUNTAIN LAUREL (Kalmia latifolia)

LONG ago I got some laurels from famous breeder Richard Jaynes. After planting them on a landscape job…..in 1985 or so…..when one of those bloomed I realized I shouldn’t have sold it….nor Dick Jaynes! It was so shockingly good I had to buy it back from the client for THREE TIMES what i sold it for, it is that nice! After all this time we have finally propagated a few. It has very thick, very dark green foliage, superior to any laurel I’ve seen, with a full compact habit and very large, heavy substanced flowers of the clearest pink that open very wide. I think its as good as any cultivar named by Dick Jaynes………we have only a few…..4-6 inch $40 limit, one per customer Hardy in zones 5-7, 4 with protection

LEUCOTHOE PERFECTION Leucothoe fontanesiana selection

The cleanest, most disease resistant leucothoe ever. We take plant performance seriously here…after 25 years of observation there’s NO other leucothoe that performs as well. Related to rhodos, this is the perfect tall groundcover to use in massing or as a specimen, bearing long sprays of white bell flowers in June. Evergreen lance shaped leaves are on gently cascading stems forming a billowy mound. Foliage is very dark in color with coppery red tones on new growth and again turning red in winter. Best in somewhat shaded areas. Excellent cascading over walls, stream edges or mass planted in the garden. I got this in NJ 25 years ago from a local grower & noticed how disease free it was…when I moved to Maine it came with me, now 25 years later it still outdoes any other leucothoe, is totally hardy & does not get leaf spot. The BEST LEUCOTHOE I have ever seen. Our mature plants, draw oohs & ahhs! Adaptable zones 5 thru 7 8-12 inch $15 for 1 $43 for 3 $80 for 6 12-15 inch $18 for 1 $52 for 3 $99 for 6

HOW TO GROW RHODODENDRONS THAT THRIVE

12 Friday Sep 2014

Posted by easternplant in RHODODENDRON

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

culture, growing rhodo, rhodo care, RHODODENDRON

ONE OF THOUSANDS OF THE RHODOS AT EASTERN PLANT IN MAINE

Rhododendrons come in all shapes, colors and sizes. Growing this fascinating group of plants is easier than many think. Importantly, there is a lot of mis-information out there. I see people preparing soil where none is needed or preparing it incorrectly. Often doing less preparation is the right thing if your soil is right. READ ON

We are located in zone 5b officially but last winter felt like zone 1. We went to 18 below zero, the coldest I have ever seen here. Though we are 2 miles from the ocean here in Maine, the waters moderating effect is not that great, as the water is south of land, and the cold winds blow from the north/northwest.

If you live in the following states at least some rhodos can be grown where you are. In more southern states listed, azaleas are easier than rhodos. (azaleas are rhodos)

Alaska Connecticut Delaware Illinois Maine Maryland Massachusetts Michigan New Hampshire Kentucky New Jersey New York North Carolina Ohio Oregon Pennsylvania Rhode Island South Carolina Tennessee Vermont Virginia West Virginia Wisconsin

As someone who has grown rhododendrons from the age of 16, in both NJ and Maine, very successfully, and by the thousands, I can speak with some confidence on this topic. I do like to be challenged, so if you disagree please comment. Some of these comments might seem out of the main stream, so be it …but they are fact.

OUR WOODLANDS ARE FULL OF BLOOMING BEAUTIES

There are literally thousands of rhodo hybrids and species. In any one climate, perhaps only a fraction of those can be grown but in general, they will thrive from the mid Atlantic to New England to the upper midwest …depending on the cultivar, hybrid or species. (and the Oregon/Wash coast is rhodo heaven …but those of us in the east have many ideal areas also!)

WHAT TYPE OF SOIL? This is where I see lots of bad info!!! Rhodos evolved in both woodland, forested climates and more open, mountain climates. Mimicking what nature did is always best but even better is not trying to mimic it, but just “having the right conditions and soil naturally” …and many areas do. They can grow well in woodland soil with organic matter and mountain type soil that is gravelly also.

WATER LOGGED SOIL A NO NO

Here at the nursery our soil ranges from pure sand to soil with a peaty* layer on top with sandy soil below to very peaty/organic to heavier soil. In many cases the soil is shallow and only 3-5 inches deep before hitting ledge and rock & that’s fine, for rhodos. That peaty layer is usually the result of a hundred years of rotting oak leaves and various mosses. Rhodos love it. Naturally peaty soil if fine, but making it and amending stuff to make it, is not as good or easy.

If you have good draining woodland soil DON’T TRY TO IMPROVE IT. At our nursery we have ideal woodland soil; it varies but generally we don’t do anything when planting except add Soil Moist or Terra Sorb to the planting area. Generally speaking, if you you have oaks, that’s a good sign your soil is fine as is. Come visit, you will see the best looking rhodos anywhere on the east coast …and again, we do nothing to improve the soil.

SOIL MOIST AND TERRA SORB These are water retaining crystals that after expanded with water, are added to the edges of the rhodo root ball and under it when planting. We use them here and they work amazingly well. They give the plants an edge in that it reduces chance of drought stress and generally gives better growth. They must be fully expanded in water before using. Most garden centers have it. Email if you have questions.

ONE OF OUR OWN EXCLUSIVE HYBRIDS RASBERRY SPLASH

PLANT SHALLOW AND DON’T COMPRESS SOIL HARD Rhodo roots are shallow and fine textured. When planting plant at same level as root ball, not deeper. Firm soil around edges but NEVER STEP ON SOIL to compact it. Also, make sure the root ball is wet or damp before planting. After planting, water the plants in, but not to the point of flooding. They can’t take overly wet soils (with a few exceptions)

IF YOU HAVE UP AND DOWN LAND ON A SLOPE This is often ideal as it drains well, so if your land has contours, use them, don’t flatten them. In nature rhodos are often found on sloped areas.

SITE OUT OF WIND Generally speaking sites out of windy locations are always best, yet I can say my property is windy and when you see how they are thriving!

HEAT AND COLD-BOTH ARE FACTORS People often think it’s just the cold that can hurt plants but heat can be just as bad. Rhodos generally do better in the cooler-colder states or at least states that don’t have long, hot summers …so that rules out the deep south in general for rhodo growing but there are a few exceptions. Here in Maine on the coast we can grow as many (but sometimes different) rhodos as the mid Atlantic area due to cool summers.

RHODOS FOR COLD AREAS & RHODOS FOR HOT AREAS Some are better adapted for hot or cold areas, if in doubt just ask us

SUN OR SHADE Rhododendrons are often called shade plants but that’s not entirely true. Some want full sun, especially smaller leaved types. Sun from dawn to noon is fine. If you look up and see patches of sky AND patches of leaves that’s generally good …giving you filtered shade. Generally speaking, in areas up north they can take more sun (but beware of scorching winter sun in next paragraph) In milder coastal locations they can take more sun also.

IN FAR NORTHERN CLIMATES WINTER SHADE HELPS When the ground is frozen in the north, bright winter sun can dry the plants out as they cannot take up moisture when the ground is frozen. Siting your rhodos so they get some shade in winter will help. Winter shade can come from trees especially evergreen trees whose branches shade when the sun angle is lower in winter. Shade can even come from cut evergreen boughs stuck in the ground in late fall to provide a bit of shade. NEVER BURLAP rhodos to protect them. If you must do this, erect a burlap screen a foot or two away from plant toward the windy side …that will help if they are in a very windy area.

ONE OF COUNTLESS WOODLAND SCENES DURING BLOOM AT THE NURSERY

DON’T ADD TOO MUCH ORGANIC MATTER Oh this irks me …I hear people say “I added lots of peat moss and compost” to the rhodo area …well, that will generally kill them over time as the organic matter breaks down into muck. If your soil is clay and sticky you must add sand and gravel and some organic matter. Rhodos need organic matter but it should not be over done. If you have NATURALLY organicy soil from rotting pine needles or fir or hemlock and oak leaves that is perfect.

SAND AND GRAVEL if you have heavier soil add sand and gravel not just peat moss

MAN MADE COMPOST IS A NO NO I can hear the screams….what is this man saying? Compost from anything except oak leaves is bad. It has the wrong texture and often ph and is full of earthworms! Adding crushed/ground oak leaves to soil is good.

EARTHWORMS ARE AN ENEMY OF RHODOS I can see you shaking your head. EARTHWORMS MAKE THE SOIL TOO CRUMBLY FOR RHODO ROOTS and they raise ph. The crumbly black dirt earthworms make is not good for them. If you grow rhodos, pluck out earthworms when you see them, Rhodos want friable soil yes yes..but not the type earthworms make. earthworms no, compost no. Next time you are in an oak forest, pick up the first few inches of dirt and leaf litter….that’s the type of soil rhodos want. Its layered and spongy but not pebbly and crumbly.

ROOT BOUND AND POT GROWN RHODOS …TRY TO AVOID THEM We grow our rhodos in the ground or shallow flats, which mimics the natural shallow root systems they have …no other nursery we know of does that. It is much healthier for the plant and prevents them from being root bound. If you do purchase root bound rhodos, the outer roots must be loosened before planting.

A BEAUTY FROM OUR BREEDING PROGRAM, NOT AVAILABLE QUITE YET

MULCH WITH OAK LEAVES …PINE NEEDLES ARE GOOD TOO GGRRGGG what to mulch with. If you have them, by far the best mulch is oak leaves. Nothing else comes close. If you have oak tress or people in your area rake away the oak leaves..gather them up and use them as mulch. Almost all plants will benefit. PINE NEEDLES make a good mulch too and we use them here. Excess mulch will kill rhodos over time. I see this happen all the time. Think about it. Does a rhodo growing in the woods naturally get 5 inches of wood chips poured on top of it every year? …of course not. Over mulching is one of the biggest scams in horticulture …its a way for “landscapers” to make money, that’s all. If you are growing your rhodos in a natural woodland environment, after a year or two …the falling leaves in fall may be all they need. We dont like using bark or nuggets but if you must they must be from softwood (evergreen) trees.

DO NOT MULCH WITH HARDWOOD CHIPS UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCE I will talk about that in a future blog post. So, oak leaves are the best but oak (and maple, etc) chips are a no no.

KILLING THEM WITH KINDNESS …PLEASE DON’T TREAD ON ME Due to the fine delicate roots of rhodos we actually can kill them with kindness so do not walk on the root area of rhodos, generally the width of its branches. This is one of the most important things to remember. Those roots grow slowly, stepping on the root ball can literally rip off parts of the root system.

NEVER RAKE HARD UNDER RHODOS Rhodo roots are shallow, raking hard under them can literally rip the roots away. Leave the leaves that fall there, they are a natural mulch.

FERTILIZER We do fertilize here both with dry and water soluable fertilizers. A general fertilizer with nitrogen in urea form is good; do not use nitrate based fertilizers (see label for what nitrogen is from) Mira Acid does work well as do other water soluable fertilizers. Generally, do not fertilize after late July. We fertilize starting in May thru late July. For the average homeowner a few feedings in spring is fine. Read the label.

WATERING Don’t let them go totally dry, even once it will kill them when they are young. After they are established in the ground it is a different story but newly planted rhodos, at least the first year must not be allowed to go bone dry. Always water the transition zone where root ball stopped and loose soil began.

COVERED IN FLOWER BUDS Did you buy a rhodo covered in flowers buds on every branch..that’s not a good thing. All those flower buds are produced by excess fertilizer and in some cases growth hormones which do the plant no good. If you bought a 3 foot rhodo with buds everywhere carefully break off half. It takes somevcourage but you will do the plant a word of good, and save its strength for better growth and ultimately a better plant.

HARDINESS RATINGS I see rhodos sold in many places that are not the least bit hardy, very sad. If in doubt feel free to email us. At Eastern Plant we test all rhodos for hardiness …like no one else. YOU CAN TRUST OUR HARDINESS RATINGS. We specialize in superior, hardy varieties that you cannot get elsewhere. Thirty years in business shows that …we have stood the test of time.

ALL our rhodos are grown in the tough climate of the northeast and over winter OUTSIDE …IT MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE.

RHODO MARKS VANILLA AVAILABLE NOW 8-10 INCH $45 FRAGRANT WITH TROPICAL GREEN LEAVES

EASTERN PLANT …GROWING THE BEST RHODOS FOR 30 YEARS

LET US CONVINCE YOU WHY THEY ARE BETTER

CONTACT easternplant@juno.com

Eastern Plant

~ rare plants rhododendrons natives

Tag Archives: growing rhodo

RHODODENDRON MAIL ORDER AVAILABILITY (pick up too)

HOW TO GROW RHODODENDRONS THAT THRIVE